Pizza is just pizza, right? Whether I’m right or wrong you can’t help but fall in love with the story and diversity behind each of them. The abundance of toppings, dips, stuffed crusts and pan sizes all contribute to make it THE PIZZA.
Since moving to London some years ago I’ve yearned a local pizza go to, not something horrendously upmarket and fancy but a place that keeps things simple, contemporary on both interior and exterior, dim lighting and a hoarding of plants to keep the element of “nature” rife throughout the experience.
So, let me introduce you to FARE, the most recent venture of Michael Sager.
Opened a few years ago with his business partner, cult mixologist Marcis Dzelzainis. It’s a bit of everything. There’s coffee from Brixton’s Assembly Coffee, delivered from a San Remo Opera 2.0. There’s all-day pizza, from a big industrial oven. There are cocktails on draught, imaginatively served from an assortment of taps, embellishing a marble-topped horseshoe-shaped central bar. Taptails. Made in batches offsite. Fairly priced and fairly tasty
Fare is located in what Sager reckons to be “the most exciting area of London, where all design is based: web design, architects, branding, you name it”. In other words, it’s on the Clerkenwell/Shoreditch border, the junction between Clerkenwell Road, Old Street, and Goswell Road. On the street level of the big mid-century warehouse block, the Morelands Building, it has fully embraced that look, with floor-to-ceiling windows, reclaimed Holophane lights, exposed metal beams, Meccano-esque ducts, white walls and foliage plants ( when is too many plants?)
This ground floor is light and airy, with street views; downstairs, it’s a more enclosed feel, despite some light filtering through inset glass floors. Tables are set well apart, capitalising on the big floor space, while the kitchen is discreetly visible through a window, rather than in your face. Lighting at night is dim, Sager being a believer in going dark, which is kind to faces, but makes reading the menu or even seeing what’s on the plate difficult. It softens what otherwise might be quite a severe ambience, though, and we liked the room — despite, the night we went, a party of drinkers. confined within a curious half-height sheep pen, roaring away at the other end.
I often try to come up with a shorthand description of what Fare is like, and I come up with convivial hipster every time. Its on trend but not full of itself and the staff (as well as fellow drinkers and diners) are friendly, fun, flirtatious. I like a place that takes its wine seriously too (over 250 bins) but recognises that at the end of the day, people just want to have a good time (and maybe experiment with a different drop now and then.)
Just make sure everyone gets their fare share.
Titus Gormley – Recruitment Manager